By Bill Hylton
Лучшее из журнала renowned Woodworking. При помощи конкретных практических советов вы сможете самостоятельно изготовить красивые и практичные предметы, которые займут достойное место в вашем интерьере и будут радовать вас и окружающих своей неповторимостью. В каждой статье представлены подробная схема того или иного изделия с пошаговым описанием его изготовления, список инструментов и материалов, которые потребуются при работе, а также иллюстрации, наглядно демонстрирующие описываемое изделие в готовом виде.
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Additional resources for Bill Hylton's Ultimate Guide to the Router Table
In most situations, you’ll find that the best way to achieve clean, flawless profiling cuts is to use featherboards to hold the work both to the fence and against the tabletop.
Brace one end of the board against the fence and push the edge against the spinning bit. Immediately pull it off the bit, advance it an inch or so and repeat the chop cut. When the length is worked, make a conventional right-to-left pass. indd 34 4/17/07 4:15:16 PM BASIC KNOW-HOW Zero-Clearance Tactics Zeroing out the clearance around bits that are partially housed in the fence is a fundamental technique for improving cut quality and safety. You’ll get cleaner cuts with profile-cutters, rabbet bits, cope-and-stick bits, panel raisers and many other bits.
You’ll find lots of architectural trim bits. Most of them are either large diameter or especially tall. Many lack pilots. Using them in a table-mounted router is essential. The obvious challenge in routing long moldings is clearing a feed path. Working a 7' to 8' strip of casing for an architectural door requires 8' of clearance on either side of the bit. To work a 10- to 16-footer for a chair rail, baseboard or crown molding, double that. Less obvious—until you actually start routing—is the difficulty of maintaining consistent contact between the work and the cutter.