Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html I've got a project which calls for a light drybrush of Grey Seer. While I know most any light grey paint would work, I thought it would be worth it to ask and see if anyone has an opinion on which Citadel, Game Color or Model Color paint would be the best match, as Google searches seem to only give recommendations on spray cans. Thanks.

I primed all the models Grey Seer no problem and layed down Celestra Grey with my airbrush as the base and I am very happy with how it came out. The two colors are very similar so if you dont get total coverage it hides very well.Lastly, there isn’t much yellow, but you’ll find a bit on the collar as well as the pompoms. I kept this nice and saturated, as it’s such a small detail that it should be called out. I went all over the yellow on the pompom with the wash, but didn’t really use it on the collar. You could use it to define the color barrier between red and yellow but it’ll be kind of hard to see. You could also use it for sergent or corporal stripes on the uniforms. It is hard to find a good white paint that will cover a surface evenly and completely without applying a lot of layers. White Scar is a one of two white paint colors from Citadel, and is the purest white you’ll find in any model paint brand. Reaper Master Series paint has a pure white paint color that is comparable. If I had to compare White Scar to other whites, then I’d say that for most white painting needs, you can’t get anything with better coverage and utility. Well, you can, but other white paints tend to be chalky and clumpy. Citadel White Scar is a smooth, gel like blend that you can use straight from the pot thinned with water, or use it to tint other colors. It mixes well with any acrylic paints, and further adds opaque qualities to those colors. Mechanicus Standard Grey That should get you through these ligne Voltiguers just fine, and those techniques will apply to anybody else in the regiment. And yes, I know I just painted Ultramarines again. The Belt is done with Mephiston Red and shaded with Carroburg Crimson and Nuln Oil, and highlighted in spots with Evil Sunz Scarlet.

http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo The next major project is starting on the base. I started by laying down a bunch of Astrogranite around the modeled parts of the base. The bulk of the mound is painted in Mechanicus Standard Grey and drybrushed with Celestra Grey, though I’ve also drybrushed teh marine and the rest of the stuff on the base with Celestra Grey as well to make it look covered in dust and ash. The gold wing there is also Retributor washed with Agrax.

The Skin

Get out basecoat touched up and cleaned up if needed. We’ve gone for the Caspian Blue for a very specific reason. Kilts are made by weaving different coloured cloth together, and when the two colours combine, the effect they produce is like a third combined colour. In this case, our base colours are a rich dark blue and a green, so our midtone colour is a blue-green, and that’s what we start with I decided to paint the British Napoleonic Highlander Centre Companies box from Victrix for this HTPE, tartan and all. Some might call that foolish, and they would be right. Warpstone Glow is a bright, almost fluorescent green that you can use to highlight other green paint layers. I along with others have used this to create glowing effects, e.g., object source lighting (OSL), by adding more and more white paint. Metallics Leadbelcher