Download Popular Woodworking's Arts & Crafts Furniture Projects: 42 by Robert W. Lang (ed.) PDF

By Robert W. Lang (ed.)

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Extra info for Popular Woodworking's Arts & Crafts Furniture Projects: 42 Designs for Every Room in Your Home

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I cut the mortises in the template with a 1⁄2"-diameter bit in my plunge router, guided by the router’s fence, and squared the ends with a chisel and a rasp. I could have used this same method on the actual cabinet sides, but by using the template I only had to do the layout work once, and if I slipped with the plunge router, the damage would be to a piece of plywood, not my finished end panel. With the template clamped to the bottom of the end panel, I drilled most of the mortise with a 3⁄8" Forstner bit, and then used a router with a flush trim bit to trim the sides of the mortises flush to the template.

Make your back pieces out of any scrap pieces of cherry you have lying around. Narrow pieces are OK. You just want to make sure that the width of the pieces will add up to 311⁄ 4" when in place in the rabbet in the case sides. Begin by cutting 5⁄ 16"-deep × 1⁄ 4"-wide rabbets on the edges. I like to use a rabbeting bit in a router table. Cut the rabbet on both long edges of the boards (one on the front face of the board and the other on the back) for the back boards – except the boards that will go on the outside.

The block Half-lap joints hold the intermediate stiles and rails of the doors clamped to the saw’s fence locates the cuts without trapping the parts together. between the dado cutter and the fence. drying, I cut the mortise for the lock, and carved the recess to inlay the brass escutcheon for the keyhole. I secured one of the long stiles in my bench vise (as shown at right), and put glue in the mortises before placing the tenons of the rail assembly. Next I put some glue on the top edges of the tenons on the rails.

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