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Black walnut ⁄8 in.  3⁄8 in.  5⁄16 in. Pear Picture Frame Materials quantity part actual size 1 Top rail 3 2 Stiles 3 1 Bottom rail 5 1 Shelf 3 2 Corbels 3 8 Pegs 3 ⁄4 in.  13⁄4 in.  133⁄4 in. Red oak ⁄4 in.  13⁄4 in.  93⁄4 in. Red oak ⁄8 in.  13⁄4 in.  91⁄4 in. Red oak ⁄4 in.  33⁄4 in.  28 in. Red oak ⁄4 in.  13⁄4 in.  33⁄4 in. Red oak ⁄8 in.  3⁄8 in.  5⁄16 in. Red oak start by milling all the stock to 3⁄4 in. thick. Separate out the wood that will be used for the bottom rail, and continue to plane it until it is 5⁄8 in.

Hole with a 3⁄8-in. brad-point bit and use the outer square chisel from a mortising bit with a mallet to square off the hole (as Laying Out the Peg Holes shown on p. 35). The third option is to drill a hole with a ⁄8-in. The mirror and the picture frame both have square peg details at the corners. On the picture frame, the pegs are purely cosmetic and can be omitted. On the mirror, the pegs hide the screws used for installation and for holding the shelf to the corbels. The pegs on the top rail are centered above the dado; on the stiles, they are centered directly across from the bottom rail; and on the shelf, the pegs are centered above the corbels.

An option is to make the cut on a bandsaw, with the peg strip backed up with a longer strip of wood to keep your fingers a safe distance from the blade. Once the pegs are cut, chamfer the bottom edges lightly with a file to help them seat into the square peg hole. Gently tap into place with a leathercovered mallet head. The pegs in the shelf can be installed at this point, but leave the corner pegs out for now. You can use the four corner holes and drywall anchors to hang the mirror and then plug the holes after it’s hung.

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