By Hideo Sato, Yasua Nakahara
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Extra info for The Complete Japanese Joinery (Reprint Edition)
This cut should be practiced on scrap before you attempt it on a part you hope to use. If you’re hesitant and uncertain as you roll your gouge into the work, the gouge will skitter away from the cove along the turning, defiling the spindle. (I’m not suggesting that the gouge can read your mind and punish your lack of confidence, but there is something in the physics of this cut that rewards authority and punishes hesitation. ) To create a cove, you should work from both sides toward the middle, widening and deepening the cove a bit at a time.
The problem with scraped shapes is that they take more time to form and they leave surfaces requiring lots of sanding. Cut shapes, on the other hand, require much less time and sanding. In the hands of great lathe technicians, cut shapes may require no sanding at all. In Chapter 3, I stressed the importance of grinding the bevels of turning tools with a single bevel. ) I said this not because a single bevel produces a sharper edge than several mini-bevels can produce, because it's possible to produce a sharp cutting edge with mini-bevels.
I had forgotten to turn the part all the way around to see that all four of its corners cleared the tool rest. One did not, which broke in half the cast-iron tool rest and tore the turning blank from its position between centers, sending it skittering across the lathe and onto the floor, somehow missing my body, despite the fact that I was foolishly standing there next to the machine as if I’d taped a “Hit Me” sign to my shirt. On another day, maybe 15 years later, I was turning a back post for a chair when the tailstock broke loose from the lathe bed, the 45" turning blank broke free and cart-wheeled across my shop.