Download The Joint Book: Complete Guide to Wood Joinery by Terrie Noll PDF

By Terrie Noll

This hardcover e-book with inner spiral binding is 6.5in x 8in, an ideal measurement for carpenters and woodworkers to maintain close to their workbench or toolbox for fast access.The layout of this booklet permits it to put open flat, which permits for simple and widespread reference, and the inner images, illustrations and diagrams, make the educational procedure uncomplicated and enjoyable for newbies, and offers beneficial advice for extra complicated readers.

The Joint e-book includes easy-to-follow step by step directions for developing side and shawl joints, lapped and housed joints, mortise and tenon joints, miters and bevels, dovetails, dowels and biscuits, and offers particular descriptions of fasteners, undefined, and knockdown joints. This publication is the precise spouse for any woodworker drawn to bettering their joint-making skills.

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Extra info for The Joint Book: Complete Guide to Wood Joinery

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Careful placement of the pattern allows the seat to be defect-free. The band saw makes short work of roughing out the seat blank. F U R N I T U R E F U N DA M E N TA L S • 43 In order to drill the holes in the seat blank, there has to be a way of referencing the blank to get the legs splaying at relatively the same angle. Esherick may have eschewed symmetry, but having the legs on the stool splay at four different angles would have been a bit much, even for him. I made a simple jig for the drill press from two pieces of plywood and a scrap of 2×4.

Because my seat is rectangular, the stretcher angles on the sides are different than on the front and back. Pay attention when drilling the holes because the legs are handed. With the scrap boards clamped in place, take the rough measurements for the stretcher lengths. On my stool the side stretchers are of equal length while the front stretcher is longer than the back. Once you have the lengths calculated, turn the stretchers. I made mine overlong and made sure the ends were 5 ⁄8" in diameter over the last 21 ⁄2".

If you’re not as fortunate, you’ll need to glue up stock for width, which is what I was planning to do on the way to the lumberyard. Adapting the Design The original seat was 1" thick, and the corbel supports were short pieces at each end. Because I would be using 3 ⁄4"-thick materials, I extended the seat supports to run all the way between the ends to brace the seat and strengthen the overall structure. The second design change was to the ends – on the original the arched cutout that creates the legs of the bench wasn’t centered on the end.

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