The book provides a range of ideas and methods for training for climbing. It mostly focusses on training more at the power end of the spectrum, though does contain a section on endurance training. The aesthetics of the book are great, there are inspiring shots sprinkled throughout, useful clear photos of various stretches and exercises, and clear diagrams. Text is broken up, so never feels monotonous. With a standardized progression of hold sizes, unmatched comfort, and space saving design, this board is an excellent home training tool With the 1000 and 2000 models, Beastmaker changed the face of home training; taking it away from the precious few with the space, money and dedication to build their own home wall and brought both the idea and the possibility of building finger strength away from the crag or gym to the everyday climber. Suddenly, anyone could get strong in their small bits of spare time at home and many people duly did. Alongside changes in attitude to sport climbing and bouldering, Beastmaker helped to change the game and raise the bar.

While these credentials alone do not make someone inherently well researched in the world of training, Feehally’s meticulous approach to progression, described through training logs and supplemental research have come together in this book. Despite Feehally’s pedigree in the sport, it is easy to feel skeptical. Could it be just another training book? Beastmaker’s Ned Feehally has become a pillar of climbing’s international training community. Between both his 1000 and 2000 models, Feehally has co-produced the most popular brand of wooden fingerboards in the world. Although Beastmaker continues to build and rebuild training equipment, Feehally has more recently focused his efforts on a training book. This is Beastmaking. Ned Feehally on his wall Cons: At this point in the life of Rakkup, there simply aren’t enough guides available, though this will surely change over time. The app’s design is also a bit bland, with a dark blood-red strip at the top; it leaves a bit to be desired. Some users may also find the guide prices too steep for their taste. Keep in mind, however, that these prices are on par with the cost of any physical copies you’d find. And as any experienced climber knows, the price of a good guidebook is well worth it.

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Fantastic, thank you. Knowing someone else up'd their grade by focussing on flexibility is great. Over the past week or so I've been trying a couple of follow-along routines on youtube for lower body flexibility- lattice and hoopers beta. So I shall keep at it though it does take some sacrifice time-wise to prep space etc. I'm a dad and a husband so my time is usually tight... just like my hips. This book does not provide details on the nitty gritty science underpinning the methods, mental aspects of training, or climbing technique. It is a focussed book, which distills the training literature, combines it with the experience of Ned and his peers, and presents an entertaining and informative guide as to how to train. The training potential of the Moon Board and its app is vast. Many climbers have used the app to train almost exclusively on the Moon Board, and most have become stronger for it. The social aspect of the app is fun as well––climb classic problems set by Ben Moon himself and many others, or create your own and watch as they are climbed, graded, and rated by your fellow climbers around the world. It’s like a video game for climbing! In the intro Ned says he has extracted the most useful and usable nuggets of information and is passing them on as simply as he can. He has done a great job on this. Cons: Like the Boulder Trainer app above, Beastmaker offers no supplemental content on the app itself. It’s basically a purpose-built timer with some hangboard workouts programmed in.

Most of the exercises are sitting or squatting and they don't all need to be done at once, they mostly work isolated bits of you. Work out a basic set of them and squeeze them into normal life. Squat while the kettle boils, find a couple of sitting stretches you can use while reading to the kids... Beastmaking by Ned Feehally is designed to provide normal people – like you and me – with the tools we need to get the most out of our climbing. With insights from some of the world’s top climbers, including Alex Honnold, Shauna Coxsey, Adam Ondra, Alex Puccio and Tomoa Narasaki is this the book you need to push your climbing goals further? Pete Edwards takes a look...He puts his experiences within the context of these high-end athletes and reduces the information to its most essential characteristics. From the foreward, Feehally admits that he will leave the citations out of this book and recommends your following up with additional reading if interested. Chapter 5 of Beastmaking The overarching theme of the book, as the subhead suggests, is on fingers. “Finger strength is basically what sets people apart from others,” said Feehally. “I think all the best climbers in the world have really strong fingers.” (Photo: Beastmaking Collection) Well, like all of Wedge’s content, it’s superbly composed and features great cinematography and charming narration. While Feehally climbs on his beautiful home wall (yeah, I said it) and flashes a V11 in the Lake District and FAs some gnarly roof choss in the Peak District, he also outlines his views about how training can fit into an everyday person’s life and make them better at climbing. Comfortable, labeled edge sizes, holds for warming up and training hard, great full length jug hold, asymmetric hold layout On a similar note, if you have the option, put the fingerboard somewhere easily accessible to make sure you actually use it. Ideally close to the TV, not in a cold garage and preferably not in the kitchen due to constant changes in humidity and temperature.

Ready to take your finger strength to the next level? If so, the 13 hangboards in this review will play a part in your path to success. With more science behind finger training, more training companies than ever before, and more types of climbing training apparatus, choosing the correct hangboard for your specific needs can feel like a daunting task. We have put years of hangboard testing and training experience into this review to help you make the right decision and get on with pushing those grades. For this recent update, we used refreshed metrics and the most modern knowledge of finger strength training. Cons: Simply put, it’s a weather service. You have to take its forecasts with a grain of salt. Additionally, the information offered in the app might be too vague for some users who want an in-depth forecast. Climbing Weather offers the essentials (temperature, precipitation chance, wind speed, and humidity), but only in three-hour increments. If you want a detailed forecast of precipitation and barometric pressure on a meticulous hour-by-hour line graph...this is not your app.Boulder Trainer is a customizable hangboard app. Choose your hangboard of choice, select a pre-programmed workout or create your own, and train your fingers into oblivion. The author regularly uses examples from his and his partners broad experience to demonstrate a range training ideas. Both the ideas behind the training methods, and example workouts are clearly presented. The author is not prescriptive, but provides a starting point and suggests ways to induce variation in the training, and to maximise "gains". The writing feels like talking to a knowledgeable friend, informative and informal in the perfece balance. It is jargon free, meaning both a relative beginner and experienced training hero could read this book and get useful information from it.