when it's done fill the pot, but make sure the emulsion holes[little holes you drilled in the tube] are in air, bolt the top on[bit of paper will do as gasket] connect the blow gun up and squirt I decided to use a Waxoil gun and my compressor, I had the propane burner on in the workshop since 3.00pm flat out and it was like the sahara, in fact it was so hot I decided a T-shirt and shorts was the dress code.

This did not improve the sink/kitchen area one little jot, .....ever tried holding a 'waxoiled cat' in a sink with water and rags, and especially when cat does not enjoy it ? Before I waxoyled inside the chassis members I set the compressor to maximum and sprayed out any dust and crap. It was all quite clean in here, otherwise I would have had to power wash it and wait weeks for it to dry.

Getting some heat under the van (It’s winter)

I've got away with it...."all done"...I've got away with it...."think I'll have a beer"...I've got away with it....I've got away with it...."Would you like a glass of wine ?"....I've got away with it....yippee....I've got away with it....and I also had the real benefit that SWMBO was out so I had since 3.00pm been shoving the 2 gallon cans into the sink with near boiling water. I should have known things were going to go “slightly wrong” when I started.

Like anything else, you have to prepare properly and apply it properly. It's no good just slapping it on crusty surface rust as that'll just fall off. Do some prep work first, take the "clumps" off and cover the rust hiding underneath those big clumps. There are also different kinds of treatments. Plain old Waxoyl is water resistant but will wash off over the space of 4-6 months, sooner if you make a habit of driving through a lot of standing water. There's also Underbody Seal with Waxoyl added. I don’t know much about compressors. This was my first time using one. All I know is that the maximum value on the dial was about 115psi (about 8 bar) which is more than enough for this job – I know because I tested it out and it got incredibly messy. Greases: These use oil as the carrier. Dinitrol is a grease type. Dinitrol is expensive and by the time you have bought or hired a gun and compressor and quite a few canisters of Dinitrol, you may be approaching the cost of a proper Before 'n' After treatment. later that evening...... Alleyway door closes and SWMBO walks in..... "have a nice time dear ?......." "what the HELL is that smell ?" True story that has been on the LR forums for a few years... anyone who's had dripping Waxoyl in the face while DIYing the job will appreciate this...

Inside the chassis members and internal box sections

It also pinged the fuse for the lighting circuit, getting myself out of the underneath of the landy proved friutfull, in that I knew all the places that waxoil had “leaked”. This is easy to do and costs next to nothing. The oil doesn't solidify so its self repairing, and highly penetrative.

If you really want to protect and get Waxoyl to do what it's supposed to do, then (as I do with all of my cars) pay for a professional steam clean of the underside and professional Underbody Seal with a pressurised delivery system. Then Waxoyl on top of that yourself with a tin of Waxoyl and a manual hand sprayer every year. During summer is best, then it's protected for winter. Winter is not when waxoyl should be applied, but I had no choice. I did my best to get everything dry and warm before applying the waxoyl. I put 2 floodlights and one blow heater under the van 30 minutes prior to waxoyling and kept these on under van throughout. Removing dripping clothes I entered house in “minimal Clothes” to resolve fuse prob, when Lights went on I saw the cat… It sat there and looked at me the way only a cat can... it sniffed (unapprovingly) the dripped waxoil, and I said… Diesel is slightly more available and has a higher molecular weight than kerosene so its slightly more protective in its own right, but it smells unpleasant and stings the eyes, so I prefer kerosene. White spirit would evaporate if one wanted to build up multiple sprayings, as would water.So i'll be spraying the whole underside, under the arches/wings, behind the valances, in the seatbelt bolt holes, under the scuttle (if i can get access to that), round the door hinges and behind the doors. Anywhere else i should do? I managed to borrow a compressor and was finally able to properly get to all those internal areas. In this post I’ll go over how and where I waxoyled the van.

So i'm in work tonight (halfords) and thinking about buying a tub of waxoyl and the spray gun for it. Is this the best way to get good coverage and get into all the hidden areas? (under wings, under scuttle, underside) hour later cat was scrubbed and very peed off with me, I’ve had 2 baths, and also cleaned the bath it seems that the bath will not be rusty...scrubbed kitchen floor, sink, worktop some air in at 50psi, you should get a nice circular spary of waxoyl out of the nozzle, increase pressure and if you are getting a real lopsided spray pattern take the nozzle apart andOils: These tend to be more penetrative but evaporate quite rapidly, meaning that the application usually has to be renewed yearly. It most certainly works, I've used it for years. Yes, it kills existing rust. Yes, it stops new rust forming. It's particularly good for inside doors and box sections. Thhhhuuuumpppppppp !…grwat big snotty big dollop spewed out over the kitchen worksurface... no probs I thought, ...I’ll sort that out when I’ve finished, as I might make "a little bit more mess yet".... glad she's not in.